Couture: What happens if the client changes her mind along the way about the design?
It was a challenge to source the color for the wedding gown. The scheme for this wedding is mainly silver chosen two years ago, and we didn’t’ want anything flashy so silver lamé was never a consideration, but to find the right silver took a little while. James Hare Silks of England had just the right one in a pewter grey silver silk crepe backed satin.
The gown is entirely of 100% silks – right down to the underpinnings. A silver double-faced fabric from France with a slight twill weave on one side and a subtle satin finish on the other uniting two ultra-luxurious natural fibres of silk and Merino wool, creating a mid-weight fabric with a unique streamline drape and elegant presence, was used for the under structure of the gown, but, no one will ever see this fabric that cost over $100.00/meter encased in the dress.
Spiral steel boning was installed for vertical support to keep the dress from pulling down from the strapless neckline wrinkling and collapsing the bodice. Spiral steel boning is completely flexible and returns to its original shape with no kinks, but the best part is that it’s comfortable to wear! No rigid boning sticking into your ribs causing so much discomfort to the flesh.
Layers of silk organza went into the petticoat, for the crepe backed silk satin underlay, plus 100% silk lining was used. The gown has a short jacket to match lined with silk satin chiffon. Altogether 30 meters of fabric are in this gown and you’d think it would be awfully heavy, but in fact it is very lightweight. If synthetic fabrics would have been used, but we don’t use synthetics as a rule, a very strong body builder should be the one wearing the gown to carry that weight around all day!
For reason of cost alone, you want to make sure your client has committed to the design and fabric. It is perfectly acceptable for clients to change their mind about the designs – allow yourself and your client 6 months to one year lead time if at all possible to go through this decision process BEFORE you order the fabric! Remember the couture process is a journey exploring options before final decisions are made; the good news is very few garments will require the amount of preparation time as does a wedding gown.
Couture is not only about using quality fabrics, ingenuity of construction but also about the skilled workmanship involved to pull the design altogether…
Labels: Why don’t ready-made garments have linings these days?
Ready-made garments on the whole, these days, come without linings. Two major explanations come to mind. One is the type of fabrics being used quite often are washable having 2% spandex incorporated into the weave making the garment hard to line unless using a similar stretchy lining. Second is the cost factor.
In manufacturing for anyone or everyone to make a profit, costs must be cut down to the minimum and a sure-fire cost cutting measure is to reduce or eliminate lining fabric and labour altogether. Why have a lining anyway?
Linings are there to make clothing easier to put on – consider a suit jacket being pulled on over a sweater – without lining is not very smooth going. Linings protect the seams of the garment from fraying and coming apart with constant wear, but machine sergers or overlocked edges has pretty much taken care of unravelling or fraying. Linings protect garments from body odor, perspiration staining, and from dry flaking skin embedding into the fibres of fabric all causing unsightly marks.
Linings put in with skill make the garment last longer, give the top fabric support, reduce wrinkling, are a sign of better quality garments which look fabulous adding another design dimension to the garment looking and feeling luxurious. By the way DO NOT WASH lined garments; dry clean only.
Here is another question vexing me, why on earth would anyone put a synthetic fibre lining into a natural fibre garment? As a friend of mine once said, it is like wearing cashmere wool but first wrapping your body in plastic cling film! Synthetic fibres do not breathe and feel horrible to wear – only performance sport wear is made of synthetic fibres to wick away rivers of perspiration from your body. Natural fibres naturally breathe and do not cause bodies to perspire in the first place!
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